Recently, I made a blouse for my daughter-in-law with a cotton fabric that she chose when we went shopping during a visit together. This is not the pattern I intended to use but the fabric and this pattern were just meant to be!
After making a muslin with an indie designer pattern, I decided that I did not like the finishing on any of those blouse features. As a self taught, but older, sewer I do appreciate that many of the young independent designers around today are also self-taught. However, a couple of issues I have noticed with some of the more popular indie patterns is that not all patterns are drafted or drawn equally well, even within a particular line, and not all patterns use sewing terms consistently. I have found terms used like “tuck” when really the pattern should have read more specifically the type of tuck, dart or pleat needed for shaping in that area.
As a retiree who has downsized and gone digital, I really appreciate how many independent designers are using e-patterns for immediate use. However, I have found through trial and error that there is a lot of paper and ink waste, and it is very time consuming to put such a pattern together when making clothing.
All this to say I was deliriously happy to find the Simplicity 2372 pattern in my stash because it is well written with clear language and pattern layout. I cut out a size 12 for View C and made no alterations whatsoever. All of the pieces lined up perfectly and where there are tucks and darts, they were easy to match and mark on the fabric.
The sleeve has dart details and the front neckline area tucks. I think the details of this pattern would show up very nicely in a solid or less busy print, and even in a stable knit fabric. This is a pull over shirt. It fit smoothly over Kaytee’s head when she put it on and the fit was great all over.
Because there are Center Front and Center Back seams, you can do a lot of redesign with this pattern such as adding a button down front or putting in a zipper or button back opening. I love patterns that do not take much effort in making them versatile after the work we put into getting a balanced proportion and fit. I plan on making all of the items for myself in this pattern since they come together so quickly and the style is simple but versatile. Good job, Simplicity!
I used Pellon 100% Cotton Fusible Interfacing for the neckline facing. It is my new favorite! Love that cotton! With CF and CB seams on a shirt, it is better to press open and flat finish reducing any bulk. With side seams, I press to the back and then top stitch down if I am not using a French seam.
I have returned to the “old style” of finishing lately using mostly cotton and silk threads since serged seams have too much polyester/nylon thread build up irritating my skin. OMG, it’s not just me but apparently skin issues are another new Baby Boomer problem!
BTW, to preserve and reuse my tissue paper pattern, I fuse the entire pattern to Pellon’s Craft Fuse, then trace off the size I need for the project onto medical exam paper. If it is a pattern specifically for me, I cut my size out of the tissue paper pattern , make any alterations with additional paper, then fuse my altered pattern to the Craft Fuse.
Simplicity and Pellon have come a long way since I began using these products quite a few years ago and they will now become staple products in my sewing supplies. What do you like to use in your sewing?
All the best,